Oregon’s high east-central plateau is dominated by numerous forested mountain ranges rising above fertile rangeland, with enough vistas wide enough that you can’t quite wrap your arms around them.

It’s a peaceful place, and in August, Brad and I set off for the Strawberry Mountain Wilderness. Our hiking compass was set to climb and summit 9,038-foot Strawberry Mountain itself, a once-active volcano. It got its name from Nathan Wills Fisk, a homesteader in the area, because of the many wild strawberry plants that can be found in the area.

We drove about 4 hours from Portland to our secret camping spot nearby, and set up in a campground that we had absolutely to ourselves. The quiet of the woods was occasionally broken by the rattling of a woodpecker on a nearby tree or a raspy chirrup from a hawk high up in the thermal winds. The next morning, we packed up our gear, loaded extra water, and headed to the trailhead.

Starting near the 7,000 foot level definitely helped make this hike not as arduous as it may seem. The trailhead starts on an old road that is fairly level and flat. Not very far down the path, the dogs, Brad and I were quickly startled by a big buck deer bounding through the undergrowth as it bolted away from its breakfast foraging. A little later down the trail, we ran into some other hikers. A man and his son from the Portland area were scouting the area for the hunting season, and had their binoculars trained on a ridgeline not too far away. We stopped and asked what they were looking at, and they pointed out a tiny white dot. It was a mountain goat! Somehow, on an impossible angle, the animal nimbly tip-toed across cliff faces that left me dizzy, but it was pretty cool to watch. The duo weren’t actually looking to hunt the goats (illegal) but rather looking for deer. My thoughts turned to the buck that we had just seen; had he met any of bow hunters currently out, he might not have been so lucky.

Right at this point, the trail turned south and quickly narrowed down to about 1-2 feet wide, with a couple of steep drop-offs right off the trail in a number of places. About 15-20 years ago, a wildfire had swept through the area, and while the area is recovering, the vegetation is still a little thin, punctuated with dead, blackened snags, lending a surreal feeling to the hike. Interestingly, as we followed just below the shoulder line of the ridge, the views far below were pretty amazing. Small, lush meadows beckoned, and I could imagine deer and other animals thriving in such a rich environment.

I heard twittering overhead, and stopped to watch a large group of mountain bluebirds flitting from tree to tree. Their calls are very muted and cheery; sweet, almost. After a few minutes of observation, we continued on, and started a number of switchbacks up to the base of Strawberry Mountain itself. It loomed far above us, and my palms began to sweat. This, I thought, is gonna be a tough hike!

We came around a corner and found ourselves traversing a shale trail. Shale is a type of loose rock, usually in large piles as it breaks off a larger source- such as a cliff face. And that was exactly what we were crossing. High above, cliffs with big rocks towered over us, and I silently issued a request to the forces that be that nothing decided to come tumbling down.

The path was so rocky that the trailblazers before us had actually built some rock cairns to mark the way, although enough boots had passed this way, a distinguishable line could be seen. At this point, despite the cool August morning, the sun’s rays began to warm things up a bit, helped by the reflection from the rocks.

Up we went, and found ourselves in a brief flat spot where some other trails joined ours, and we stopped to enjoy a view from a forest of tortured junipers and bristlecone pine trees edged by brilliant blue lupine flowers. I glanced up. The trail went up from that point another 45-50 degrees. Not quite climbing on your hands and knees, but it was steep…

The final summit assault had begun. We climbed up and zig-zagged across the rocky face. We were high above the tree line yet somehow, flowers managed to entrench themselves into the seemingly impenetrable stone.

Winds up here have gotten up to legendary speeds. Apparently, there was, at one point, a lookout up here, but it was eventually abandoned. At one point, a storm blew the entire structure off the top of the mountain. All that remains are some cables littered around and some errant nails.

Brad made the summit first, and whooped when he did. I slowly trudged the final stretch, stopped, took a breath, and then looked at the amazing view.

For 360 degrees, we could see mountain range after mountain range. Far to the south, we could see 9,700-foot Steens Mountain, 150 miles away. It was a stunning view!

Sitting down, we ate some lunch, enjoying the expansive vistas. I did notice a pile of rocks nearby and something stuck in them, so I went to investigate. A number of glass jars held small notes and pens. People who had made it to the top had written little notes about their adventures. I added one myself – this was Brad’s and my second wedding anniversary- and it was hard to top this at 7,038 feet high!

While we were up at the top, a few more people showed up. A father-son hiking team had actually done a much tougher round-trip hike that started farther below our trail head. They shared some tips on additional spots that they had seen along the way. As we headed down, a friendly couple on their way up to the summit and we chatted. It turned out that he was a cattle rancher in Prairie City, and it was really great to be able to talk to a local. From our vantage point, he pointed out his ranch far below with a great deal of pride. We wished them well and continued our way back down the mountain.

By the time we got to the car, my creaky knees were screaming. I was beat, but this was an awesome hike and was the perfect way to enjoy yet another Oregon favorite vacation spot.

Oregon winters are a lot of fun, with plenty of snow sports activities, but by the time spring rolls around, locals are craving sun and seeing the horizon again.  The good news is that all of that winter rain and snow melt transforms the usually monochromatic arid grasslands of the state into a magical green carpet.  You’ll find the landscape dotted with rare and spectacular native wildflowers, just waiting to be discovered!

Just about an hour and half to the east of Portland, Deschutes State Park is open desert grassland.  Something about being under wide horizons in the spring and watching the sun and clouds play with each other in a spectacular display of light is enough to lift anyone’s spirits, and this is just the spot to do it.

Deschutes State Park itself has a long history.  Geologically, it is where the Deschutes River descends from the high Central Oregon plateau and meets the mighty Columbia River.   In human history, this was a home to native Oregonians who fished and lived off the land.  Despite the seemingly austere surroundings, the desert is alive with many edible plants and animals, and at one point, not too far from this park, the largest ‘city’ in North America (pre-European) existed…on an annual basis, it was estimated that up to 100,000 people from tribes all across the Pacific Northwest gathered to trade.    When the emigrants came to the area via the Oregon Trail, the Deschutes Crossing tested the mettle of determined settlers who had to try and get their wagons across the wide waterway as they continued their trek west.

Today, this area is a delightful state park with green grass and tall trees and is considered an oasis to campers, river rafters and hikers.   A former rail-way bed on the east side of the river heads south from the campground, and is a great way to stretch one’s legs and put behind some easy miles. The trail itself is level and graded, but there is a separate loop that goes down and follows the river, then climbs back up and pass on its way to the top of the ridgeline for some spectacular views of the rolling wheat lands about 1,500 feet above.

My husband Brad and I had the dogs with us and set out on our spring adventure.  The morning sunlight was almost blinding and completely glorious.  Bird song surrounded us.  After a few miles, and having the canyon arc away from the Columbia River Gorge, we saw Rattlesnake Rapids down below.  A couple of years ago when I was on this hike, I had spotted a wolverine down near the river.  (!)  Never had seen one of those before, and was glad I was far above looking down. Those are particularly surly animals!!

As we continued on our hike, swallows twittered high above us, snacking on newly hatched bugs and the like, and I heard the eerie descending chirruping of a canyon wren… I positively love the call of those birds.

Finally, as we got to about the 3.75 mile mark down the trail, there was an old corral and we stopped for lunch, enjoying the sun. Brad spotted what appeared to be a rusty wheel sticking out of some underbrush near the riverbank. Upon closer inspection, it turned out to be part of an old plow (horse-drawn kind) that had gotten deposited into the ground.  “Multnomah Iron Works” read the manufacturer label, still visible.  I later researched the company and it apparently existed up through World World II, as best as I could tell.

At this point in our journey, the sun had been skittishly staying hopeful as puffy clouds strained to make their way up the Gorge, but the skies were now threatening a downpour. So we kicked it into high gear and started the return trip back.  As we were walking along, the winds picked up significantly, gusting between 15-35 mph.  This normally wouldn’t be a problem, but the previous season’s tumbleweeds had other plans.  With each long-winded gust, a group of about five to six tumbleweeds came flying past us.  Somehow, we got stuck in a tempest wind tunnel that kept reversing course; we would continue heading north on the trail, and the winds kept changing so that the tumbleweeds were passing us, then getting blown right back at our faces.  As quaint as they are in Western movies, those things hurt – with prickles all the way around! Imagine that coming at you at 35 mph!  Timmy the dog ended up getting completely wigged out as the tumbleweed would get caught on his face. Poor guy!

As we drew back closer to the car, the winds died down and the temperatures warmed back up.  Our tumbleweed friends had dropped behind us to our relief, and the blue sky was restored.  Far across the Columbia River, the hills were a soft verdant green.   Brad and I looked at each other and sighed- Oregon is such a “Gorge-ous” place to live!!

Sunrise over Crater Lake

Editor’s Note: Serena Becker and Jeramy Vallianos are avid hikers who work for Walk for Wildlands, a company that raises awareness for preserving the environment. Serena and Jeramy have also participated in a program that educated troubled teens in the wilderness of Scio, Silver Falls State Park etc. Read below to hear about their hiking experience on the Pacific Crest Trail:

Our first stop out of Ashland was one of the most incredible places in the world, I believe. Crater Lake. Massive, peaceful and breath-taking. We were able to spend a day walking along part of the rim of the lake and spent the night on a bluff overlooking it. In the morning we woke as the sun was rising. One of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen. The clouds quickly moved in though and the rest of the day was spent getting glimpses of the lake through the clouds as we stood in the frigid wind.

Mt. Jefferson

The wind rippling across the water combined with the clouds and sunlight trickling through created a surreal picture. It was hard to leave that place but the cold wind kept us moving. We hiked on towards Mt.Thielsen, tall, rocky and pointed. We decided against climbing it as it was covered in clouds and probably about 30 degrees on top.

As we approached Central Oregon I began to think back to my childhood spent at Waldo Lake in the summers and Odell Lake in the winters. The PCT hits the south shore of Odell lake and we spent and evening at Shelter Cove Resort. The next day we hiked up to Willamette Pass were Jeramy had been hoping to get some pizza for lunch at the ski lodge. Unfortunately they weren’t serving food that day and we had to resign ourselves to eating the same old tortilla and cheese wraps for lunch.

The PCT does not pass directly by Waldo lake so I was unable to go swimming at one of most beautiful lakes in Oregon. However it does pass by a myriad of smaller lakes just east of Waldo that I had never seen before, the three Rosary lakes, Bobby Lake and others that I can’t remember the names of. Our hike between Odell lake and Santiam Pass (Highway 20) also took us past the Three Sisters. WOW! I had never hiked near those mountains before, only seen them from a distance. What gorgeous mountains. South Sister with its red rocks we were able to catch the best views of. It turned out to be quite cold and stormy as we hiked passed the Sisters, but still absolutely amazing. We saw a rather large coyote carrying what appeared to be a rabbit in it’s mouth, a huge buck running across a meadow and a grey horned owl.

Mt. Hood

Luckily we made it down off the Sisters before the worst of the storm hit. As we descended toward McKenzie Pass, sleet and small snow flakes began to come down. We stopped by the Dee Wright Observatory and checked out the few mountains that weren’t immersed in clouds than pressed on through the lava fields and passed Mt. Washington. We were on a mission to meet my mom at Santiam Pass that evening. The cold aided us in getting there, as it was too chilly to stop for long. Just long enough to stop at the 2000 mile marker and celebrate! I told her we would be there at 7pm and we rolled in at 7:06 pm. It was such a blessing to see her there walking out on the trail to meet us. We went into Bend for the night, got warm, ate some good food and got cleaned up. As seems to happen often in town we ended up staying longer than expected. We visited with some friends who lived there and Tuesday evening (Sept. 2nd.) got back on the trail.

This last stretch in Oregon we hiked passed Three Fingered Jack, Mt.Jefferson and Mt. Hood. All three mountains that I have also seen from a distance but never up close. Jefferson still had quite a bit of snow on it and we hiked over snow banks for the first times since we left the Sierra’s way down in California. I imagine there will be more of that to come in Washington as it was such a big snow year. Unfortunately when the snow sticks around so too do the mosquito’s. And there were a surprising amount of them for the Cascades in late August.

Our hike between Jefferson and Hood was relaxing and warm. The sun had decided to show her face again and we’re hoping to have a few more of these days as we finish this amazing journey though Washington. We stopped at Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood. You may remember the outside of the lodge from the movie “The Shining”. The inside is even more incredible, built some time in the thirties and still looking very much the same. Our good friends Jody and Eli met us up there, brought our food box and hiked out with us for a night, we had a huge feast. It’s always wonderful to have friends join us out here.

From there we hiked around Mt. Hood than began our decent to the Columbia River gorge. Down we went walking along the ridge with the wind whipping by as the sun set. It was a warmish wind but it was strong and camping was minimal and not too appealing with tall trees swaying above us. So we walked later than usual until we found a semi flat spot out of the wind to sleep.

The next morning we hiked into the gorge and took a detour from the PCT, down the Eagle Creek Trail. One of the most astounding trail in the gorge. Countless enormous water falls, some over 100 ft. tall splashing down into huge clear blue pools below. The trail itself in unbelievable. It was literally blasted into the side of a vertical cliff so at times you are walking next to a ledge that drops off 100 or more feet into the water. They have installed a cable to hold onto as you walk the most dangerous part. And the tunnel blasted through the rock behind a waterfall! Amazing. If you ever have the chance, check it out. And with that to finish up Oregon we hiked into the small town of Cascade Locks, where the Bridge of the Gods spans the Columbia River. Soon we will walk over that bridge and begin the home stretch of our hike: Washington. Only 508 miles to go.

For more information on hiking in Oregon, please visit our Outdoor Recreation section.

If a community’s wealth can be measured by its wealth of wildness, Washington County may be on of the riches places around with wildlife at every turn at Jackson Bottom Wetlands in Hillsboro.

If you time your visit during the week, you may cross paths with volunteers Tina and Rose Engelfried. The mother and daughter due have been volunteers at the 800-acre wildlife reserve for the past three years.

Each agree that the best part of their efforts is educating the public about a place so wild yet so close.

Tina Englefried told me that Jackson Bottom’s convenient location is what she enjoys most of all, “It’s right here in Hillsboro and it is a jewel; just a fantastic place to come and de-stress and learn about bird life. We provide the binoculars and spotting scopes and books and help identify different species. If you want to have wildlife around you, you have to make people feel like it’s theirs and part of their backyards.”

Less than 20 miles to the south, just off Highway 219, take Laurelwood Road and climb high atop the spine of a ridgeline to reach one of the quietest state parks in our region called “Bald Peak.”

While there’s no overnight camping, picnic tables are scattered across the landscape under towering doug fir trees – it’s a site that invites you to linger longer and perhaps wander trails that offer stunning views.

What I really like about a stop in at Bald Peak State Park are the two views for the price of one getaway: to the east enjoy the broad expanse of the Willamette Valley and the Cascade Mountains; you will spy Mt St Helens, Mt Adams, Mt Hood and even Mt Jefferson on a sun-kissed day.

Your view to the west offers a spacious perspective to the Tualatin River Valley with its many farms and vineyards, the coast range mountains and even Henry Hagg Lake.

Henry Hagg Lake is less than five miles as the crow flies but your driving route through Laurelwood and then Gaston will take you more time.

But that’s alright on a fall afternoon when sun beams light up the leaves and a lone motor boat trolls across the lake that summer’s passed by.

Not far from the lake, near the village of Dilley, look for Montinore Vineyard and Winery – a tour of the site will impress you for the scale of the operation.

There are picnic tables across the beautiful manicured property and it’s an inviting way to spend a lunch hour.

It’s a gas tank getaway with variety and easy travel that will have you coming back for more.

View from Smith Rock

I have loved the Bend area since I was a little kid- especially because it brings back great memories of visiting my grandmother’s house in Sisters, roasting marshmallows by the campfire and shopping until I dropped in Bend. So when I had the opportunity to plan a surprise birthday weekend for my boyfriend, I chose Bend as our destination (of course).

We woke up bright and early on a Saturday morning and hit the road, excited to begin our adventure. Our first (and most important) stop of the day was at Sisters Coffee Company. They have a huge range of espresso drinks, and a fantastic coffeecake stuffed with apples.

Sisters Coffee Company is a great place to sit and relax as well, as it looks just like a cozy log cabin full of western decorations (including a giant bear rug on the wall).

Misery Ridge Trail on Smith Rock

Once we fueled up on coffee and snacks, we continued on our trek through Central Oregon. Next stop: Smith Rock state park. If you have never been to Smith Rock, it is a must see! We hiked the Misery Ridge trail, which was incredibly steep but well worth it when we got to the top. You can see green for miles, as well as part of the town of Terrebonne. My favorite part of this particular hike was the rock called “Monkey Face”. This area is popular among local rock climbers, and it looks exactly like the profile of a monkey.

Monkey Face

Side note: I would recommend taking small children on the river trail rather than Misery Ridge, as it is incredibly steep and narrow, and some areas have a number of loose rocks that make the trail slightly more difficult.

After our great workout, we headed into Bend for shopping in the Old Mill District, and checked into our Bed & Breakfast. If you need a great place to stay near downtown, check out the Mill Inn Bed & Breakfast. Our room was very cozy, clean and quiet, and breakfast the next morning was incredibly delicious. Be sure to try the waffles- they are light and fluffy and have the perfect amount of cinnamon.

View from the top of Misery Ridge

After checking in to our Bed & Breakfast, we headed to Merenda Restaurant & Wine Bar for dinner. Merenda is a French/Italian restaurant, and offers a wide variety of entrées from chicken and pork dishes to pastas and steaks. And don’t forget to order dessert there! The chocolate cake melts in your mouth, and has a melted chocolate center with a side of blackberry icecream. Yum!

A trip to Bend is definitely not complete without a visit to the Bendistillery Martini Bar downtown. I had their sangria, which included champagne and peach purée. They also offer a number of very authentic Oregon drinks, including the Oregon Trail and Pendleton Round-Up.

A chipmunk at the High Desert Museum

On the last day of our trip, we headed over to the High Desert Museum. I have been to the museum several times, but I enjoy it every single time I attend. My favorite thing about the museum is its outdoor exhibits. The procupines and otter always fascinate me, even though they were both sleeping when we visited. The animals, history and overall atmosphere make the High Desert Museum a great place for all ages.

It ended up being a great surprise trip to Bend, and I’m looking forward to going back this winter for another adventure…in the snow!

Metolius River cabin

Central Oregon is a top destination for most Oregonians. People living in the Willamette Valley head there to find sunshine during the dark days of winter for sun and skiing in the high-desert air. Summertime means outdoor recreation, too, with plenty of hiking, kayaking, rafting, canoeing and cycling to add to the activity menu.

A favorite spot in this area includes the Metolius River. Located not too far from the delightful Western town of Sisters, the Metolius River Recreation area is tucked back against the eastern flanks of the Cascade Mountains. Various vacation lodges and campgrounds dot this area marked by tall Ponderosa and juniper trees, green grass and icy blue water.

Flyfishing on the Metolius

The Metolius River is actually a geological spectacle itself. Springing full-force from the nearby base of 6,400-foot Black Butte, the rushing waters are fed by melting snow and glaciers. And let me tell you, the temperature FEELS like it! Leave it to say that this isn’t exactly a swimming opportunity at 48 degrees F!

What attracts people to this verdant area are the views of nearby snowcapped peaks such as Mount Jefferson, the terrain and the solitude this area offers. Oh, and the fishing! Avid anglers and fly fishermen(people) flock to the area to try their luck with rainbow trout and sockeye salmon.

Bear track

Brad grew up in Oregon and as a child, vacationed here with his family. So we decided to go camping along the river for old times’ sake and to go for a hike, too.

Upon setting up camp down a remote track past all of the developed campgrounds, I started wandering around. Then I noticed that in the thick layer of dust on the spur road, there was an abnormal track. I came a little closer, wondering why someone was walking barefoot out here. Then it struck me. This wasn’t someone going barefoot. It was a BEAR’s foot!

Side stream

Hooting and hollering for Brad to come over, we both huddled over the tracks and took some pictures. Indeed, those were the tracks of a brown bear, so we took extra precautions with our food, even though we were car-camping.

That night, while enjoying the late evening warmth around the campfire, the dogs seemed pretty agitated. They kept looking behind us beyond the fire’s glow and whining. Finally, Brad shined his flashlight back to see what was going on.

“Oh my gosh! There’s something back there watching us,” he said. Since Brad is ever the prankster, I didn’t take him seriously. He insisted he was serious, so I turned and looked. Reflecting back at us was the glow coming from two eyes. Just about chest-height, not very far away. It seemed to be too high to be coming from a deer head, and suddenly, the hair on my arms began to rise.

“What do we do?,” I whispered. “Make noise,” Brad replied. What followed next was something that in retrospect, probably looked like a scene that took place millions of years ago when humanoid ancestors roamed the earth. Jumping up and down like monkeys, we threw rocks towards the eyes and started yelling at the top of our lungs. I was amazed at how this basic instinct took over. The eyes didn’t budge. It wasn’t until the dogs took up full battle cry (our dog Buddy is a Plott hound, and the blood coursing through his veins has been bred to hunt bears) that the orbs slowly ambled away.

We were a bit shaken from this experience, and needless to say, not much sleep was had by the humans that night. The next morning, I scouted around for any tracks but found nothing, not even deer. Our visitor remained a mystery.That day, a little groggy as a result of a sleepless night, we decided to hike along the Metolius River trail, and our spirits were uplifted by the beauty of the surrounding scenery. Ospreys chirruped overhead, and we flushed out a number of grazing deer as we passed. The trail itself is easy, meandering along the banks of the swiftly-flowing river, but maintaining the same elevation for the most part.

Azure waters of Metolius River at Wizard Falls

Near Wizard Falls, there’s a fish hatchery, but we found to be one of the most amazing features was a rock formation under the river. The water is forced up and apparently it is very deep, and the result is an amazingly rich sapphire color in the stream. It was almost dazzling. Here at Wizard Falls, you can cross the bridge and walk along the river on the opposite bank and enjoy the cool air coming off of the water. Wildflowers dotted the banks and as we followed the path, many flyfisherman and women were lined along the banks.

One person said I could take her photo but not reveal her secret spot along the river, and then proceeded to walk out on a downed tree extending into a large eddy. I sat down on the log’s edge on land, and quietly watched her concentration as she expertly maneuvered her line. After awhile, it was clear that the fish weren’t biting, so I moved to get out of her way, but she smiled, then popped down into the water until it came up to her arms. Thank heavens she had waders on- but the frigid waters must’ve still made her legs numb!

Camp Sherman Store

As we hiked along the trail, the serenity of the landscape, sense of place with such a beautiful and pure river flowing through it, and all the animals we saw reinforced my feeling that the Metolius is a special treasure. Even the only real retail outlet in the area is worthy of a stop to enjoy. The Camp Sherman Store, built over a 100 years ago, houses an authentic and historic-style market, but is complete with all of the modern-day necessities for today’s hikers, campers and fisherman. And on a hot day, it too becomes an oasis with a nice ice cream treat to cool a person down.

This area is truly a retreat to relax and enjoy some of the best things that Central Oregon has to offer.

For more information on visiting the Metolius River, check out our Central Oregon section.

Succor Creek Oasis

We left our cool retreat up in the heart of the Blue Mountains with the intent of exploring the last section of Oregon that I’d not been to (and probably the most remote part, too).

This time, we pointed the car to the southeastern corner of the state, and with temperatures forecast to be in the 100’s, we took extra precautions to make sure we had plenty of water and supplies, as well as a full tank of gas. Because the temperatures were so hot, we also realized that there was no way we wanted to hike/camp out in the desert – we’d melt, along with everything in our cooler! So our plan was to explore SE Oregon in one day, then return to the mountains north of the town of Burns to cool off.

Driving into Leslie Gulch

A long day of driving stretched out in front of us, but we were game, and so were the dogs who are always ready for a car ride!

Descending out of the Blue Mountains, we made our way east to the Oregon town of Nyssa, just west of the Idaho border. In fact, after we turned south, we paralleled the Snake River, which lazily meandered near green farm fields. It seemed hard to imagine that not too much farther north, the Snake would quickly speed up in its plunge towards the Columbia River. This descent created Hells Canyon, which, at 7,900 feet deep, is the deepest chasm in North America, and seemed a far cry from the sleepy flow alongside us.

As we continued south, the temperature climbed, and the Snake River headed away from us to the east. We were now in a seemingly lonely stretch of road that looked to go on forever. The panorama stretched for hundreds of miles, with nary a tree in sight and a gravel road that stretched on for miles. Our first stop was Succor Creek State Recreation Area, a well-known spot in Oregon for thundereggs (otherwise known as geodes), which also happen to be the state rock. The recreation area was a treed oasis along Succor Creek, and was a welcome rest stop in the heat. Above us, towering rock formations reminded me a lot of Zion National Park in Utah. Only one other car passed us during this time, so we were alone in this beautiful arid landscape as we stretched our legs and walked around, exploring the scenery. Finally, the heat became too much and piling back in the car, we made our way to our next stop, Leslie Gulch.

Entrance into Leslie Gulch

Formed by repeated volcanic ash eruptions and lava flows, erosion has revealed a unique geology in Leslie Gulch, which is designated as an Area of Environmental Concern, due to fragile formations and rare plants found in its reaches. What drew us to this area were the descriptions of giant pillars of rock which were formed as a result of the Mahogany Mountain caldera, which is a large volcanic depression that surrounds the entire region. There were a series of violent eruptions that took place over 15 million years ago, and time has eroded the landscape into a visual array of spectacular formations.

Before we descended into the gulch, we paused at a sign that noted that local cattle rancher Hiram Leslie was struck at this point by lightning and killed. The sign also mentioned that this was the only road in and out of Leslie Gulch, and subject to flash flooding, so care was to be taken in watching weather patterns. I squinted at the sky. We had been noticing building clouds to the west, but for the time being, they didn’t seem a threat, so we headed into the gulch.

We were stunned. I had trouble keeping my eyes on the road, as I continuously wanted to keep looking up at the fantastical rock walls above us. We finally got out and did some hiking around near some of the campgrounds. A few other brave souls were out and about, mainly in the camping areas. But a quiet calm seemed to encompass the area – perhaps it was because of the oppressive heat – the temperature had settled at 100 degrees. Only a few swifts skittered across the sky, which was growing ominously darker. After about 15 breathtaking miles of scenery, we rounded a bend and saw the Owhyee River Reservoir, which incidentally is also the state’s largest. Interestingly enough, the word “Owhyee” is actually is the old spelling of “Hawaii”, and the river was apparently named after a number of Hawaiians on explorer Donald MacKenzie’s Snake Country Expeditions of 1819-20.

But history wasn’t concerning us at the moment, because as we were hiking around the reservoir beach area , thunder started rumbling and brought urgency to the moment. We needed to get going. With the only road in and out of Leslie Gulch running alongside a dry creek bed, it wasn’t too difficult to imagine a large torrent of water completely washing out the dirt road. So off we went.

Desert Rainstorm

Just as we reached the crest of the ridgeline above the gulch, (right near the sign informing of the demise of Mr. Leslie who was struck by lightning), the skies let loose. The thunderstorm was on top of us and even though the wipers were going furiously, the deluge came down even faster. If I didn’t know any better, I would have thought that we were underwater!

Lightning bolts danced across the hilltops nearby and the rain pounded us as we made our way back to the main gravel road. Cows grazing on rangeland stared at us as we passed nearby, either wondering what on earth we were doing out there or gasping in relief as the storm’s cooling cascades brought the outside temperatures down. As we continued on, Brad and I watched the car’s outside thermometer drop down to 51 degrees in about an hour and a half. From 100 to 51 degrees! That’s the desert for you – a land of extremes.

Charbonneau Grave

Our route took us to the town of Jordan Valley, where we briefly ducked outside the leading edge of the storm. As we pointed our way back west towards the town of Burns, we made a brief final stop at the final resting place of Jean Baptiste Charbonneau. Son of Shoshone guide Sacajawea who led the Lewis and Clark expedition through the West, Jean Baptiste lived an amazing life. It was eerie standing at his gravesite. Here was an accomplished man who had, under the tutelage of William Clark, completed his studies and the spent a great deal of time in the company of Prince Paul Wilhelm von Württemberg, nephew of King Fredrick I. Charbonneau ended up living and traveling all over Europe for six years and learned to speak several languages, including German, Spanish and French. The place where he is buried seems so far removed from the gilded royal salons of Europe, which makes his presence here in an isolated stretch of Oregon all the more noble.

After several hours, our time in the car was up. We had ended up catching the back end of the big thunderstorm and drove in silence through the rain pelting the sagebrush plains. In Burns, we grabbed some dinner and headed up into the mountains to find our campsite for the evening, and quickly located the Idylwild Campground, set up our tent and crashed for the night. Our exciting adventure in Eastern Oregon was now complete, and tomorrow, we were headed home with some great memories of the rugged beauty of this sparsely populated corner of the state of Oregon.

For more information on hiking throughout Oregon, please visit our Outdoor Recreation section.

Green grass and lupine blooming in the Blue Mountains

One of Oregon’s biggest kept outdoor secrets is the Blue Mountains. Located in Central Eastern Oregon, the “Blues,” as locals affectionately refer to them, are not spectacular snow-capped mountains, but instead are much less conspicuous than their towering Cascade Range cousins. Rising up off of the wheat growing plateaus above the Columbia River, the Blues are a dark line on the horizon, and as the plateau loops up and up into the Blues, one suddenly realizes that you’ve escaped the sun-filled plains and are now emerging into ponderosa pine forests and mountain streams.

Mountain tops near Vinegar Hill in N. Central Oregon

Brad and I had set our sights for Eastern Oregon for our summer vacation, with the intent of camping, hiking and exploring the final corner of the state that we had not seen yet. The forecast called for clear and hot weather- the perfect recipe for outdoor camping!

Painted Hills

We loaded up the dogs and headed east. First, we stopped at the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument – Painted Hills Unit outside the town of Mitchell, off of US Hwy 26 (approximately 13 miles). This treasure is a much-smaller but equally amazing version of the Badlands of South Dakota. Deposits of ash over millions of years coated what is now Central Oregon. The weathering of the ash and minerals has created amazing hues, ranging from dark magentas to light yellows, and the hills look like someone artfully dashed watercolors across the summits. Other units of this Monument include one of the largest and richest fossil beds in the world, which also serve as a record of the extreme changes this planet has undergone – what is desert today used to be an ancient lush rainforest!!

Brad hiking along an abandoned road

We hiked around, and took numerous photos to capture the stunning beauty, accented by brilliant wildflowers still blooming in seemingly arid land. However, the temperature was climbing and we decided we’d better start heading for the cooler reaches of the Blue Mountains soon!

Oregon is the seventh largest state in the United States, and by the end of this day, we had been on the road about 10 hours (including stops) before we finally crept onto a forest road near the mountain hamlet of Austin, Oregon. The nearby Middle Fork of the John Day River burbled nearby and we were in search of the perfect camping spot. We found it, after searching out Forest Service roads and then subsequently following a track for several miles. Tall trees towered over us, and rich green grass rippled in the cooling air. It was apparent that no one had been down this road for quite some time. In fact, our progress was stopped entirely when we came upon a tree blocking the road, and that made for the perfect excuse to stop for the night.

Nearly a human being was in sight, and only the wind sighing in the pine trees above created any sound, other than our setting up camp. We were so tired that it was only moments after grabbing a quick bite to eat for dinner that we were in the tent and asleep.

Surprise! Woodpeckers created this face in the woods!

The next day, we planned to stay for another night, so we decided to hike past the downed tree and explore where the road went. It was shortly after we passed the tree that the main part of the road ended with a large earthen berm. But continuing past that was a very old road that was mostly overgrown, so we decided to see where it took us. The skies were boldly blue without a cloud in sight, and the wildflowers including the lupine were blooming mightily. For about an hour we hiked in near silence, just listening to the woodpeckers rap on nearby dead snags, and Western tanagers warble in the treetops. Finally, a view peeked through the trees, and far above, snow still lingered on the mountaintops.

Words cannot describe the solitude one can find in a place like this. Just the wind sighing in the treetops and the birds singing to keep us company. When we made it back to our camp, Brad and I spent literally hours just sitting in the shade, either reading or staring off into the woods enjoying the peace we found here. The cooling breezes were delightful, and we reveled in them, knowing that shortly, the next leg of our trip will be taking us to the much hotter desert plains of Eastern Oregon very soon. That story will be in the next posting for this blog!

For more information on the Blue Mountains, please visit our Scenic Byways section. Also check out our Hiking section for more great trails!

Brad and Chris near snow trail

Travel in the Pacific Northwest sometimes sees no borders, and while this is a Travel Oregon blog, one hike in nearby Washington State is just too good to pass up… it starts with humble beginnings in Portland and ends sweeping views of northern Oregon as the delicious finish.

This past weekend, the sun was shining mightily under azure skies, and we were inspired to stake our claim on some great vistas while the weather held. Brad, the dogs, our friend Chris and I packed ourselves into my Subaru and headed out the Columbia River Gorge, with Silver Star Mountain as our destination.

Pyramid Rock and big snow drift

This mammoth is the closest tall mountain to Portland, and offers some of the most stunning views around, even though from the city, the summit only appears as a high ridge. But don’t let that fool you- the panoramas are amazing. The round-trip mileage for this hike is about 8.4 miles, but the full loop is about 9.7 miles.

However, as a forewarning, this hike is not for the faint of heart, and as we were to find out, an added little obstacle stood in our path to the summit…

After taking Hwy. 14 to the town of Washougal, we turned left at Milepost 16 and followed the Washougal River Road, which paralleled the river for 6.9 scenic miles. We turned left once more onto Bear Prairie Road and continued for 3.2 miles, then turned left again onto Skamania Mines Road, continuing on for 2.7 miles. The road then split (follow the left one- Road 1200) which turns into a gravel bumpy road for another 5.7 miles to Grouse Creek Vista. Keep an extra eye out for oncoming traffic as this is a pretty narrow 1.5 lane road!

View looking toward Oregon

At the trailhead, we threw the packs on and headed up through the quiet Douglas fir forest. And up. And up. This trail has an elevation gain of 2,400 feet but is worth every step of the way! Winter storms had blown down branches and trees onto the pathway, and snowmelt also caused a trickle of water to be on the trail itself, but we carefully stepped over such obstacles and climbed our way past the Tarbell Trail. (Don’t go that way- very steep!) Even though it was June, spring only had recently arrived, with gentle trillium still blooming with tenacity.

This was a harbinger of what was to come. After not very long, today’s true hindrance revealed itself. Snow. Lots of it. Normally, Silver Star is a hike to be reckoned with. Add in snow, and this was a genuine keister-kicker!! The remnants of winter will be long gone by the end of July, but today, 10-15 foot snowdrifts occasionally and stubbornly refused to budge. Unfazed, we dug in our boots and kick-stepped in order to clamber over these hurdles. Up and down we went, with Chris and Brad alternatively leading the way and picking the trail up. Please note: this should only be attempted if you know the route really well – it is pretty easy to get lost in unfamiliar territory with no seemingly established trail to follow- even I was feeling a little uncomfortable. But Brad and Chris had traveled this path many times, and knew the terrain, thankfully, so I put my trust in their instincts.

We kept along the route, passed towering Pyramid Rock and finally reached a section where the trail became only snow. Only a faint pair of faded foot prints showed any signs of human activity, and were headed in the direction we were going… up to the top. After so much exertion trying to kick-step into the snow, I was close to exhaustion, and started to beg to turn around. (Yes, hikers occasionally take on more than they can handle – and I hadn’t planned on near-mountaineering conditions!) Chris pushed ahead while Brad stayed behind with me and the dogs (good husband!) and shortly thereafter, heard Chris yell, “Hey guys, the summit’s right here- c’mon!” so upwards we clambered. I was glad I made it, as always. We were rewarded with a rare 360-degree view, which revealed the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge, the fertile Willamette Valley, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier in one fell swoop. Amazing! Needless to say, we took a long break to catch our breath soak up the views and down some energy bars for the return trip.

View from the top:

On the way back down, Chris and Brad (and even the dogs) took great delight in sliding (almost skiing) down the snow banks. As we descended, it amazed me to see the steepness of the trail we had just climbed. Had I really climbed all of this earlier, without complaint? Holy cow, I exclaimed out loud. No wonder I was tired and my knees were wobbly from exertion!! This is steep!

We only saw three people the entire time- one older gentleman who was headed down from the summit just as we were finishing and two younger men who had paused in the snow, and were woefully unprepared in tennis shoes (wet feet!). But I wasn’t too smug- the snow I had been chipping into to get footholds had finally seeped into my boots, and with each step, my socks squished. Fortunately, we were back at the car soon enough and on our way back to Portland to unwind after such a great workout!

For more information on great trails in Oregon, please visit our Hiking section.

Otely said, “The Pueblos are deserty and all have roundish tops, the Steens are very pretty, but the Wallowas have such a variety of geology and vegetation, and then you get to a summit and there’s just mountains, mountains, mountains around you that can’t be beat all those white granite basins. It’s very much like the Sierra in some places. I could be a spokesperson for the Wallowas.”

Please visit www.katu.com to read the entire fascinating article.

For more information on exploring Oregon’s wilderness, please visit our Outdoor Recreation section.